The Legend of Zelda Fierce Deity Link

059009 Fierce Deity Link (September 21, 2008)
from: The Legend of Zelda Majora’s Mask video game / size: ± 18,5 cm

Download:
parts (1,75 MB PDF file)
instructions (1,57 MB PDF file)

some extra help on Fierce Deity Link’s hair and cap: 123 | 4
some extra help on Fierce Deity Link’s right arm: 1

Pictures:
Google Photos

66 thoughts on “The Legend of Zelda Fierce Deity Link

    1. It is certainly possible of course… But I have so many ideas for new papercrafts already, that I can never promise if or when I will make a specific papercraft, sorry…! :o(

      I remember somebody did make a papercraft N64 Deku tree before though. Maybe if you search around you can still find it? There might be a lot of broken links because I think it was quite a few years ago, but don’t give up looking and maybe you will find a working download! ;o)

    1. Hello! I’m afraid making video tutorials would take too much time for me, sorry… I hope the pictures in the step-by-step instructions help, and if you’re having trouble, try looking at pictures of other people that might have built Fierce Deity Link and compare it with the part you’re trying to fold and glue. Make sure you didn’t forget any fold lines, and that you folded them the right way (up or down). Often the fold lines are difficult to see on the printed version, so use the PDF version as a reference (you can zoom in, change the brightness if needed etc). If you’re not sure, fold the part you think is right but don’t use any glue yet; that way you can try if the parts fits to the rest of the model you already built the way you thought, and if it doesn’t, you can usually see what the problem is that way and try again. ;o)

      I’m sorry that I can’t help you better, but I hope you will be able to understand the picture instructions. ;o) Take your time and have fun!

    1. The trick is to carefully examine the fold lines to make sure you don’t fold them the wrong way;

      It can be difficult to see on the printed version, so zoom in on the PDF version to see which fold lines need to be folded up (valley fold: _._._) and which ones need to be folded down (mountain fold: —-)

      Once you have that sorted out, the parts should start shaping themselves: take note of the arrows on the template too, that give some indication of how the parts should be folded in on themselves.

      I also made a little schematic on which glueing flaps should be glued where, you can see it here (see the numbered linsk next to “some extra help on Fierce Deity Link’s hair and cap:” in the download post): http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/jrRhtKmBAPjkFmEPNBQYSdMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0

      The hair is always difficult, because there are often a lot of folds and the shapes can be quite intricate. It’s difficult to explain in words, but hopefully with some careful examination of the fold lines on the parts and the pictures in the instructions and some trial and error, you’ll be able to do it! ;o)

      Take your time and have fun! (and don’t forget it’s better to take a break and try again later when you’ve been trying for hours already, sometimes with a fresh mind it suddenly makes sense ;o)

  1. Hi, um I dunno if anyone has asked this yet. But do you have just a file of the sword? I know it’s a weird question but my buddy was wanting one and I’m not computer savvy enough to know how to re-size, let alone make, just the sword and wanted to make it somewhat life sized. I have practice with Pepakura Viewer 3 and have made Squall’s Gunblade, which is insanely awesome oh my dear Shiva, and am currently working on KH2 Auron’s Masamune. And thought this one looked awesome and wanted to try it, lined or lineless or even a pdf it doesn’t matter to me. I’m eventually going to make several Papercraft Keyblades all life size for a roughly 5’7” person and well, why not a Zelda blade since I’m going to be making the Buster Sword as well. If you can’t that’s fine, I just thought I might as well give it a shot in the dark. Thanks for taking the time to read this.

    1. Programs like Photoshop or Gimp can open PDF files, so you can edit them as normal image files, cutting and pasting the parts for the sword (only 3 parts ;o) to a new file.

      I’ll send a JPG file of the 3 parts for the sword to your e-mail, so you don’t have to install a program just for that (it’s great if you teach yourself some basic skills with programs like those though, it’s fun to fool around with ;o)

      Scaling it up you will need to do yourself though: like I said, you can see the sheet with the parts as a normal image file, so it’s easy to scale up.

      Because the sword is relatively small though (about 22 cm or 8.7 inches), and for a lifesize version it will need to be very big (it’s bigger than Oni Link himself, so I guess it’s at least 10 times bigger…!)

      So you will need many separate sheets of paper, and the result will be quite fuzzy. But it’s really just two spirals and a simple hilt/grip, so with some creativity, you can easily fix it up a bit. ;o)

      Have fun on your project!

    1. To glue on part 11, first glue together the two legs as shown in step 14 of the instructions and as indicated by the arrows between parts 7 and 9.

      Now score and fold all the fold lines on part 11: make sure you don’t forget any! (if you look at the PDF file, you can see all the fold lines much more clearly than on the printed version).

      I found it easiest to start at the front (what is basically Link’s groin): the small triangle part at the bottom of part 11 on the template should be glued between the two links at the front (take your time to properly glue the glueing legs to the inside of the legs).

      Then you can fold back the pentagonal part of part 11: this will become the “top” of the legs. If you look closely at step 15 in the instructions, you should be able to recognize the small triangular part and the pentagonal part of part 11 that are glued to the legs.

      Now step 16 shouldn’t be too difficult anymore: you simply have to glue the rest of part 11 (Link’s buttocks) to the back of the legs. The glueing tab that’s just below the part number 11., should be glued to the opposite edge on the same part.

      It sounds a bit difficult in words, but if you try it without glue first and look carefully at the instructions, I’m sure you can do it! ;o)

  2. Dude this papercrafts is sweet. Do you think you could make another version of this but as normal link?

    1. I would definitely like to make a (regular) adult Link from Ocarina of Time some day, but I don’t think I will put him in the exact same position as this one.

  3. Dude your papercrafts rock. Do you think it possible in the near future you could make a skull kid with mask Papercraft? That would be epic

    1. I’m afraid I can’t promise I will get around to it in the near future, but a Majora’s Mask Skull Kid is definately on my to do-list!

      For the near future though, maybe you will like this one that can be found on Nintendopapercraft.com, but be sure to read all the remarks!

  4. ninjatoes, I was wondering if you had your original .pdo’s available. I’m interested in making a bigger version of this model. Do you have them available so I could resize the model for myself?

    1. Beacause I always find things to fix after test building, instead of re-doing the entire model over and over again, I only fix the parts that need fixing, and then cut and paste all the good parts together in Photoshop. So there simply aren’t any finished Pepakura files available of my models, only the PDF files that you see here.

      If you want to enlarge this model, you can open it in Photoshop or Gimp and then treat it just like any other image file. I don’t know how big you want to make it, but don’t worry if the parts become too big to fit on one sheet: you can simply glue them back together again after printing of course. ;o)

      Good luck and have fun!

    1. I’m afraid all the help I can really offer on that is already in the instructions…!

      Build one part at a a time, and make sure you folded everything right (valley fold where you need to valley fold, and mountain fold where you need to mountain fold). Glue together each individual part first like I do in the instructions before glueing it on.

      Another good tip I think if you’re not sure if you’re doing it right or not, is to try out the parts without glue first: fold and pre-shape them the way you think they should be glued together, and see if it looks similar to the pictures in the instructions and if it fits with the other parts. And then if it does, glue it on! (and if it doesn’t, try a different way, there are only so many ways you can fold a part using the same fold lines ;o)

      I hope you can do it, good luck and have fun!

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