088001 Battlestar Galactica Viper Mark II (January 23, 2010)
from: Battlestar Galactica re-imagined television series / size: ± 26 cm x 15,5 cm 9 cm
Download:
parts (1,57 MB PDF file)
instructions (2,31 MB PDF file)
Repaints by blake7:
Caprica Police Viper Mk.II parts (1,00 Mb ZIP file)
mirror host (Papermodelers, members only)
mirror host (Zealot, members only)
NASA Viper Mk.II parts (1,69 Mb ZIP file)
US Navy VFA-103 “Jolly Roger” Viper Mk.II parts (0,99 MB ZIP file)
monotone D-Day Viper Mk.II parts (1,00 MB ZIP file)
Battlestar Galactica Viper Mk.II scale 1:24 parts (1,54 MB ZIP file)
“Dukes of Hazzard” General Lee Viper Mk.II parts (1,53 MB ZIP file)
World War I “Red Baron” Viper Mk.II parts (1,23 MB ZIP-file)
Pictures:
Google Photos
Ninjatoes' papercraft webpage 
hi there. I tried 2 printer and cant get it to fit. is this A4 or US letter format. can guide how to print on A4 please.
All of my paper models were made for A4 paper, but they can be printed on US letter paper too of course if you let your PDF reader or printer scale the pages to fit the paper size.
Almost every PDF reader should have a printing dialog box with the option to scale the pages when printing the document, like “Fit to page” or something like that. Or, the separate settings of your printer software will probably also have a similar option.
Often you can se a preview of what the printed sheets will look like with the chosen print settings, so you can check if no parts will be cut off.
The main thing you have to look out for if you scale a paper model like that, is that the pages don’t get distorted: if the height needs to be scaled by a certain amount to fit on the paper, the width should also be scaled by that *same amount* of course so the proportions will stay the same.
Normally, the PDF and printer software will do that automatically depending on what scaling option you use, so the parts will still fit together if you print it on US letter paper, except that the final paper model will be a little bit smaller than originally (about 94% if you go, depending on your printer margins as well of course)
I hope this explanation helps a bit; if you try the different scaling options your PDF reader and printer might have, I’m sure you will quickly find the right one!
excelente diseño en papercarft, que otros modelos tienes con ese buen diseño curvilíneo
Saludos
Thank you! I had a lot of fun making it, so I’m happy that you like it as well! ;o)
darn the paper i used stars to fray a bit…. well fa trick up my sleeves will fix that hehe… althoughcutting open the fuselage access panels near the nose was challengin.. will scratch build the internal bits… wait and see! c”,)
For this model, I do recommend using thicker paper, because of the tab/slit method I used (and just for overall strength, of course ;o)
I hope you can fix it the way you plan, and that the scratchbuilding will work out too!
Good luck and have fun!
had fun? more than that!!! i brought it to the office and helped me relax myself on customer calls… i mean really.
i got another officemate to watch the miniseries DVD even! score one fer ya! and BSG!! got most of the nose done and shaped accurately since the cross section isnt exactly plain oval… a bit dirty but that was exactly my goal! dirt filled, banged bad but still making french toast fresh out of the launch tube!
Yeah, the official nose and top engine are a bit more like the classic Colonial Vipers, but it just looked so good a bit curvier… ;o)
Good luck on your project, I’m guessing you already have experience altering paper kits so I’m sure your Viper will turn out spectacular! (and will maybe even convert more of your colleagues to become Battlestar Galactica fans! ;o)
Have fun!
the curvier the better, after the raider, i expect the 2 versions of the viper mk7 will just as awesome the former.
so say we all. if ever, would there be a chance of having mk2 brand new textures? for capturing the mk2s of adama or kara’s revived mk 2… not that is much to do for those but simply have the suggested cut lines to avoid cutting elswhere…
one GF, one coworker.
that is “The Plan”…
then on weekends, at least 3-4 episode on the office LCD TV..
Frak will then be the normal word, the pantry room renamed rec rooms, then pc’s would have cut corners..
who knows….
by the way visit my jaybat’s viper build photos on http://www.zealot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=169968
and whaddya think?
It looks very nice! Obviously a lot of work went into it as well, with the scratchbuilt interior and landing gear!
it didnt exactly go perfect but well i get good remarks bout it. more effort is going to you viper. you might end up saying its not even paper…..
Ah, but we’ll know…! ;o)
Yeah, although the Mk. 7 was obviously the more advanced fighter, I’ve always liked the Mk. 2 better.
Must be the racing stripes. ;o)
thing with the mk7 is that there are 2 subvariants having changes i presum externally as on the shape of the nose and fuselage strakes, and the bottom intakes…
yup or me it also may be the stripes and its tank-like disposition.
I think it’s just like with modern combat planes and military vehicles: they constantly get updated with new technology as it becomes available, to give the fighting men and women the edge over the enemy. ;o)
would you be able to build both version of the mk7? me? im going to build the 2 versions of the cylon raider the early type with straight ey scanner the latter version with the v-type scanner and some aft area openings and vents.
i had the slight difficulty when i built the nose without any tabs, the viper was so new that i actually lost track of were to cut!! hopefully a small change can be made where a light gray cutlines can be included so people who wants to build tab free would have some guides..
anyways this is the most accurate viper, not to diss the other designer and upgrade makers, by far IMHO you have taken great pains in researching the structure of the hull.
wait when i post photo comparisons of a plastic model and your model….
Thank you for the compliments!
For me, it’s easier because I know exactly how I made it of course, but I can know it can be a bit difficult sometimes to see where the part stops and where the glueing tabs begins, especially on printed versions.
Sometimes I colour the glueing tabs a light grey to make it clearer, I think I will do that more often on white(ish) models. ;o)
I hope you still had fun building it, it sounds like you put in a lot of effort to make it look extra good! ;o)