The Legend of Zelda young Link

027003 young Link (July 19, 2006)
from: The Legend of Zelda Majora’s Mask video game / size: ± 17,5 cm

Download:
parts with fold lines (1,34 MB PDF file)
parts without fold lines (1,15 MB PDF file)
instructions (1,08 MB PDF file)

some extra help on Link’s head, hair and cap: 12 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9
some extra help on Link’s body: 1 | 2 | 3 | 4
some extra help on parts 39-41: 1 | 2| 3

Pictures:
Google Photos

53 thoughts on “The Legend of Zelda young Link

    1. When I made this papercraft Link, Pepakura Designer v.1 (the program I used to make the unfolded patterns) would only let you choose black lines, or no lines.

      So the idea was, that you would print the lineless version, and would use the black lined version only as reference, to see where you should fold the lineless version, like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v2jbNR7eQLU

      But in the later version of Pepakura Designer (v.2), you could choose any colour fold line you want, so instead of having to make two versions, from then on I made only one version, with the same principle: the lines on the printed version would be very hard to see (so the paper model would look better, without lines in the face and such), but on your computer, you can use the PDF file as reference to see where you should fold the printed version.

      So unfortunately, I only make one version of my newer models, and of course since I already don’t have as much time as I’d like to make new models, I really can’t redo old models; people are welcome to rework the paper models they want to build themselves to make it easier or better, but I can’t do it for them, sorry… :o(

    1. I’m sorry, but the PDF file is the only version there is of my papercraft Link… I made some extra help a long time ago for the head and the hair, but it is still difficult;

      An important thing is to make sure you didn’t forget any fold lines, and that you folded them the right way (up or down; called valley or mountain fold).

      When you’ve made sure of that, then you can shape it the way you think the parts should be (without glue first on difficult parts!) and try if they fit together that way. If not, compare it with the pictures (there are some in the “hall of fame” too, that are sometimes clearer than my own ones: https://ninjatoes.wordpress.com/?s=young+link then often it’s easier to see what the problem is than when you just look at the one part and can’t put it together separately.

      And the most important thing is to take your time of course, and when you keep having problems with specific parts, don’t feel bad to take a break completely and leave the paper model alone for a while: put all the parts somewhere safe, and then maybe in a little while, you feel like trying again and maybe the parts that gave you problems before are easier then with a clear head.

      I’m sorry I can’t help you better than this, but I hope you will be able to get past the problem parts…!

  1. I can´t finish step 5 in young link, can you please make a tutorial video or something for it to be easier?

    1. I’m afraid I simply don’t have the time to make extra help on all the steps, but I hope that with the parts you already built and glued together in front of you and if you keep trying, you will be able to figure out how to glue on part 6:

      Make sure you didn’t forget any fold lines and that you folded them the right way (up or down) by checking with the PDF version with fold lines.

      If you already assembled and glued together parts 1-5, you will see how the white part of part 6 glues to the bottom of the head, to part 5 just like how it is arranged on the templates.

      If you look at the template, on part 4, there are two small, triangular shaped parts on the ends of either side each with two small glueing tabs; those two small parts each go between the yellow hair parts and the white part on part 6.

      The small glueing tabs on the yellow hair parts on part 6 should be glued to the only edge of the yellow hair parts on part 3.

      It sounds very difficult since I’m explaining it in just words, but like I said, I hope with the assembled parts in front of you, I hope you understand what I mean…!

      Fold the fold lines of part 6 and try to match it against the head that you assembled so far already without using glue first, so you can always change it if it’s not correct.

      Of course each glueing tab only fits against an edge that is the same size, so try to match up the right size glueing tab with the right edge, and once you’re happy that you got it right, apply some glue and glue it on permanently! ;o)

      I’m sorry I can’t help you better than this, but I hope you can figure it out!

    1. I’m afraid I can’t offer you any more help than I already did, sorry…

      Check the PDF parts file version with lines to see if you didn’t forget any fold lines, and if you folded them the right way especially on part 7 (up for valley folds, and down for mountain folds).

      Score all the fold lins before folding them, to make it much easier to make the sharp/crisp folds you need to make.

      Once you are sure you got all the folds right, try without glue first if the parts go together the way you thought and see if it looks the same that way as it does in the pictures.

      Like I said, on these parts there’s some extra help that you can see if you click the numbered links next to “some extra help on Link’s head, hair and cap:” just below the parts and instructions download link.

      Links 1-6 are 3D screenshots that show you more clearly what the shape of the parts of the hair should be.

      Under Link 7 you will see a schematic showing you to which edge each of the glueing tabs of the hair should be glued.

      Link 8 will show you a few extra pictures to show how the hair looks on the finished model.

      Make sure you got all the folds right, and take your time studying the extra schematic and images, and try without glue first if you can put the parts together so the result looks the same.

      If you really can’t get it to work and it’s really getting too frustrating, leave the model alone for a while and try again later when you have a fresh head again and maybe it’ll be easier to get it right then.

      I’m sorry I can’t help you better than this, but I hope that with these tips you’ll be able to figure it out!

      1. Haha sure, thanks :P.
        Yep it was fun (i shrunk it to half the original size though so the really small pieces got a bit difficult, ie. the sword pommel)! Can’t wait to build the next one, not sure what to make next yet though.

        1. I didn’t even realize you made it half the original size! ;o) You did a great job, and I’ve added it to the hall of fame here: link

          I hope you like it! There are many papercraft websites out there nowadays, so I’m sure you will be able to find one you’d like to do next; have fun building! ;o)

          1. Hey you guys seem to be awsome at papercrafts you think you can explain me how to add peice #12 AKA the final piece to complete links head or also to complete links cap plz i need help

            1. I made a little schematic that will hopefully make things a bit more clear: http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2150311430048373270iAGydO

              First, if you’re building the version without fold lines, have a look at the version with lines to make sure you didn’t miss any folds: young Link is a “blocky” paper model, so score the fold lines before folding so you can easily make sharp, crisp folds.

              Maybe the trouble you’re having is with the red arrow on the little schematic I made? Have a close look at step 10 and 11 in the instructions; you will see that the end of the cap (part 12) has a “pyramid-like” shape that forms the “point”/”tip” of the cap.

              When you score and fold all the fold lines on the parts and follow the red arrow on the little schematic, that point/tip forms itself automatically, and the other, open end of part 12 is glued to part 11.

              I hope this helps: make sure you got all the fold lines right, and keep trying and then I’m sure you’ll get it right! ;o)

    1. If you’re careful, you can try bending his leg a bittle so he won’t fall over anymore. But don’t overdo it of course, or you’ll wrinkle the legs…!

      Another simple solution is to glue him to a nice stand; it’s not very difficult to make your own, but you can also find some pre-made ones online.

      1. hey Ninjatoes!
        how did you make this? or did you find it? im talking about the template

        1. All the paper models that you can download from my papercraft webpage here were made by myself; some I simply drew by hand with pencil and a piece of paper, then colouring them and scanning the parts, but for others like young Link, I used a program called Pepakura Designer (link) to unfold a digital 3D model into 2D papercraft parts.

          Pepakura Designer is really easy to use, and it is shareware so you can try it out before you decide to buy a registration key to save your work if you want to. You do need a 3D program too to either create a 3D model from scratch or to edit an already existing one, but there are many free 3D programs like SketchUp, Blender, Metasequoia, …

  2. Ninjatoes! I love your models, but why don’t you include a pdo? It would make everything so much easier. Right now it’s a total pain trying to figure out where all the tabs glue on.

    1. Normally, there simply isn’t a Pepakura *.pdo file that will let you build the model like you can with the PDF-file. ;o)

      The PDF-file is the only file that has all the fixed parts together (after the test build, I usually don’t unfold the entire model again, but just the fixed parts and then I copy+paste them together in Photoshop).

      Some things are just easier to fix in Photoshop after unfolding the parts (especially textures) and as a bonus, I can fool around with the lay out pf the sheets and add part numbers, arrows, etc. in Photoshop much easier than in Pepakura. ;o)

      If you’re having trouble with certain parts, first make sure you’re valley-folding where you need to valley-fold, and mountain-folding where you need to mountain-fold; pre-shaping properly is very important, because it gives you a good clue on how to assemble a part.

      Try assembling the part without glue first; then if it doesn’t fit, you can often easily see what you did wrong and how you need to correct it.

      And of course: don’t try to rush anything and have fun building! ;o) If you feel like you’re getting frustrated because it’s proving more difficult or because it’s taking very long, it’s better to take a break and picking it up later when you feel like it again, than forcing yourself to go on.

      There is some extra help for Link in my Webshots album (link) that may help you too.

      Good luck and have fun building! ;o)

    1. Thanks, I’m glad you like them! But they’re not for sale, though, you can download all the parts and instructions for free to build your own. ;o)

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