101001 LEGO Kapitein Knoest (Captain Redbeard) (March 11, 2011)
from: LEGO Pirates theme / size: ± 28,5 cm
Download:
parts (4,07 MB PDF file)
instructions (2,47 MB PDF file)
Pictures:
Google Photos
101001 LEGO Kapitein Knoest (Captain Redbeard) (March 11, 2011)
from: LEGO Pirates theme / size: ± 28,5 cm
Download:
parts (4,07 MB PDF file)
instructions (2,47 MB PDF file)
Pictures:
Google Photos
Ninjatoes' papercraft webpage 
what paper and tools do you use for this project? Are you making any new lego paper craft models any time soon? I think all you models are amazing and am planning to make more of them! Thanks for all of your hard work!
Hi there! I will definitely make more papercraft LEGO minifigures, and who know what else! ;o) I like to switch papercraft projects though, and at the moment I’m quite busy with other things, so I can’t promise you when exactly…
On my “work in progress” weblog you can see what I’m working on at the moment: https://ninjatoes.blogspot.com/search/label/Work%20In%20Progress but whenever I finish a new papercraft, you will also see it here on my download site of course. ;o)
As for what kind of paper and tools I use:
– Paper: I always use 200 gsm (grams per square meter) paper. I don’t know exactly what that is in lbs I’m afraid, but it’s about 2.5x as thick as regular printer paper (which is usually 80 gsm). That’s pretty thick though, and a lot of people like to use 120-160 gsm paper (1.5-2x as thick as regular printer paper). But you can try different thicknesses and see what you like!
– Tools: very basic, really (I usually mention them in the instructions):
– A sharp knife (I use an X-Acto knife with a #11 blade, but you can use any sharp knife that allows precision cutting of course)
– Glue (I use TESA All-Purpose glue, but you can use any paper glue like you used in school for arts & crafts, like white glue (I’ve heard Aleene’s Tacky Glue or Elmer’s glue is often used) and people also just use regular white wood glue! ;o)
– To make sharp folds, it is best if you “score” the fold lines with a blunt tool like a dead ballpoint pen (make sure it really doesn’t write anymore!!) or a special embossing tool, the back of your knife (but it might make scratches…!)
– I often use a toothpick or a thin metal rod to reach inside models to apply pressure from the inside when I’m pushing down on a glueing flap trying to get it to stick or to curve/bend certain pieces that don’t need sharp folds (“pre-shaping”).
– I often use color markers or pencils to color the white edges of the paper pieces after cutting them (especially because I use such thick paper, you will see the white lines against the colored parts on the assembled papercraft. It’s not absolutely necessary, but it looks a lot better! I try to use penciles instead of markers on lighter parts, because the color from the markers always turns out much darker than expected…)
I hope this helps a bit! To be honest, a lot of this is just personal preference. Like I said, a lot of people like to use other paper and tools and after a few models you will find out what works for you. ;o)
My papercraft LEGO minifigs have a lot of tricky parts though, so if you decide to try them, be sure to take your time, and carefully look at the instructions (sometimes it helps to look at the instructions of another paper minifig because sometimes I explain it a little better in another model… ;o). If you’re not sure you folded/shaped the part correctly, try it out without glue first to see if it fits the way you thought. If it doesn’t fit, it’s often because you folded a part the wrong way, or because you forgot a fold line: they can be difficult to see on the printed version, so if a certain piece doesn’t seem to fit at all, check with the PDF file on your computer where you can zoom in see the fold lines better to see if you may have forgotten a fold line or something like that.
Sorry for writing so much, I hope some of it makes sense. ;o) Have fun!
Hi,
If I use some paper 210 gsm to realize the lego pirate, is it too thick either it will go?
Thank you
I used 200 gsm paper, and other people used other thicknesses and they managed too, so I think it will be okay. ;o)
One thing you might have to watch out for, is that the separate pieces like the arms have round “pegs”/cylinders that you have to push into round holes on the torso, so make sure those holes are large enough for the “pegs” (or that the “pegs” are small enough to fit inside the holes. ;o)
With 200 gsm paper it was a tight fit, so with 210 gsm it will be an even tighter fit, and it also depends on how accurate you build the paper pirate of course: you can adjust it a little bit when building the parts if you need it one or two mm larger or smaller.
Take your time to get everything to fit correctly, and have fun building!
okay. thank you so much. I will try it on :D
you made a model with A4 paper, right? how tall it is? can i make a model with A5? is that too hard? :-<
Yes, I used A4 paper to build my papercraft Captain Redbeard; with his hat, he is about 28 cm (about 11 inches) standing up.
Of course it should be possible to build him with A5 paper, then all the parts will be about 1.42 times smaller.
Whether that makes it *too* small to build, I don’t know of course: that really depends on the person who builds it (some people can build *really* small paper models! ;o) but normally if the parts are smaller, it’s usually a little bit more difficult, yes.
The trickest parts are the hands and epaulettes (the brown thing around his neck) I think, so if you want to try it, make sure to take your time and fold and pre-shape those parts properly to make it easier! (but you should always take your time and fold and pre-shape all the parts properly of course really… ;o)
Also, because my papercraft minifigs are supposed to come apart and be put back together just like real LEGO minifigs (with the arms, legs, head and everything, the parts need to be strong enough so they won’t warp or crush, so it’s best to use paper that’s a bit thicker than regular printer paper (like 2 – 2.5 times thicker, which is about 160-200 gsm (grams per square meter); regular printer paper is usually about 75-80 gsm).
I hope I have given you a few pointers so you can decide if you want to try it, have fun if you do! ;o)
is good
Thank you! Captain Redbeard is one of my favourite LEGO minifigs, and it was a lot of fun to make him out of paper! ;o)
omg too much hard part
Most parts are just simple boxes or cylinders and the parts are of a nice size, so it’s really not that hard at all; if you take your time to pre-shape all the parts properly, I’m sure you can build even the more difficult parts! ;o)
This is awesome!!!!! nice job
Thanks, I’m glad you like it! Captain Redbeard is one of my favourite minifigs! ;o)
same here !
hey ninjatoes! i love ur papercraft! juz checking i noe u use 200gsm paper but how do u get the sorta glossy(more like matte) finish? i use a4 art block…so….will it work? and….well if not then wat shld i use? and is it really hard? im juz an ammateur but i wanna make this!
Thnks!
I never use glossy paper or anything, actually; just regular paper, only thicker. ;o)
For printing, I always use an inkjet printer, on the highest print setting. It uses more ink, but the colours are “fuller”.
Some people use a laser printer, which often makes the print a bit shinier, but sometimes the toner cracks when you try to bend/fold the parts…
Some people do use glossy paper or even photopaper for a shiny finish.
You can also use a varnish/glazing spray to protect against UV, dust and light water drips and to give your model a shiny finish, but I’d advise trying it out on a “scrap” model first, to try out how much you should spray on.
Which paper to use is really just a personal preference. You can try out a few parts first, to see if the paper you have is easy to work with, and to see how it looks.
Papercraft isn’t really hard, but it can be time consuming! ;o) Captain Redbeard does have some tricky pieces, so it’s important to score and fold all the parts properly, and to pre-shape them into the shape they need to be to make it easier to glue them together.
If you’re not sure about how to glue on a certain piece, try folding and fitting the parts together without glue first, until you’re sure you got it right.
Yamaha has a nice video tutorial about basic papercraft techniques (link) which is worth checking out. For pre-shaping small parts, you can use tools like a toothpick or whatever you might have handy.
The most important part is to take your time and have fun building! ;o)
So I’ve finally got time to attempt this build, but I’m having trouble printing out the parts. The pdf says its pages are 8.27×11.69 inches, and my computer just doesn’t want to scale it enough to fit to 8.5×11. Any suggestions?
I made the original sheets on standardized ISO A4 paper (which is 210 mm x 297 mm, or 8.27 inches x 11.69 inches).
This is a little bit taller than US letter sized paper, so you will need to tell Adobe Reader (or any other PDF reader you might be using) to shrink the sheets to fit the printable area.
Adobe Reader has a “Fit to printable area” option under “Page scaling” in the Print dialog box (link) and other PDF readers should have similar options.
This will automatically scale all the pages down proportionally to the same size. When printed on A4 (due to printer margins) my printer prints the sheets at 97%, on US letter that will be about 94%.
So your final model will be a little bit smaller, but as long as you make sure all the pages are scaled the same amount (the PDF reader should do this automatically) to fit US letter paper, all the parts will still fit together like they should.
I hope this helps, have fun building!