January 4th 2025 I had a big stroke…
I lived, but have to go through a long recovery
to see what I can still do in the future…
Hopefully it will be a lot…! 👍 Always keep having fun papercrafting!
Which papercraft model would you like to build?
“What’s papercraft?” you ask?
Well, that’s when (in this case ;o) you download and print a page of 2D parts (preferably on some thicker paper) cut them out and fold them, and then glue them together to make your very own 3D paper model of your favourite game/anime/movie character/whatever you like!
There are a lot of websites where you can find free templates to download and build, including my own one of course which you’re visiting right now. ;o)
Currently, I have two-hundred-and-thirty-seven (237!) free papercraft models in stock for you! :o) Select one of the Download categories above or in the Site map to the right to find the model you wish to download (if it’s not in one of the obvious categories, try the miscellaneous section).
If you want to contact me, or send me a picture of your finished paper model for the hall of fame, you can send me an e-mail at ninjatoes@home.nl and I’ll get back to you as soon as I can. Have fun building!
Ninjatoes' papercraft webpage 
Hey all, I never really knew such a thing really existed until now. Crazy! well I’m going to give it a shot, it looks fun but as I was looking around and one model I was looking at it was saying “You can print this on regular print paper” what type of paper do I use normally then? Any way this web site does look good.
I have no idea how I found it, no, i didn’t use google, I have so many tabs open I think I might have clicked a link but hey I guess I’m rambling now. Any way I can’t wait to start building :)
Paper models will be a bit stronger and often look a bit better if you use thicker paper.
Most people use paper that’s about two times as thick (160 gsm, grams per square meter) as regular printer paper, although I use paper that’s two and a half times as thick (200 gsm).
If it’s too hard to come by though (it’s also a bit more expensive, of course… ;o) you can just use regular paper and see if it works for you. ;o)
Have fun building!
Hey, I was wondering if you could find time to send me the guide to the Moon’s Tear it won’t come up on my computer for some reason. You can send it to my email, mariah_tebo@yahoo.com
Hm, you mean the one from Nintendo Papercraft? Are you having trouble downloading it, or opening it?
To open *.zip files, you need a file archiver like 7-Zip to extract the files in the ZIP-file. To open *.pdo files, you need Pepakura Viewer, and to open *.pdf files, you need a PDF Reader like Adobe’s Acrobat Reader.
I hope this helps, have fun building!
Hello Ninjatoes’ I’ve finished the team of yellow comet!
Hm, guess I’ll need to make a few more then soon! ;o)
i have a question.
how many papercrafts can i send to you?
hehe, all this papercrafts arent sent models, are all made by ninjatoes. so you havent to send none model ;)
i meant how many of my own made papercrafts can i sent to ninjatoes for the hall of fame
I’m willing to guess as many photos as you like
i hope so
Haha yes, you can send as many pictures as you want for the hall of fame. ;o)
I’ve been a bit busy the last few days, so I haven’t been able to update your hall of fame listing with the new picture you sent me, but now I have: link
I hope you like it, and if you want to share any more pictures in the future, don’t hesitate to send them! ;o)
Have fun building!
i also e-mailed feirce deity link
heya
can i ask you, what are you actually working at? i don´t know if i should wait for something cool, or start with any new model. actually there are some cool things, but they are all to much time expensive for me now :/
check his blog for updates. just scroll down and it will be between his youtube and deviantart account. he is currently working on TP zora armour link
ah true true… i have searched for this weblog, but i was too stupid to find it ^^
thanks anyway.
link is not my favorit, so i will start with something else what is already there.
True, my weblog is the place where I show to the world my official “works in progress”. ZaL is what I’m working on at the moment as my next big model.
Any side projects will remain a secret until I release them, though! ;o)
GRR!
just gluing the head on ganondorf.
did you have to make it so confusing?
i think i did it right,
but
i cant really see enough angles in the shot,
why couldnt the neck be the right shape?
or why could the neck be on his head?
i could have screwed an entire papercraft!
i have homework and stuff so i dont get very long to work on these,
and if i have to spend another 2 weeks doing him again,
ill be veeeerrrryyy annoyed.
The “trick” to glue Ganondorf’s head to his neck I think, is to realize that his head doesn’t really sit on top of his neck, but that the “pointy bottom” has to “sink” inside his head untill it can’t “sink” any further. ;o)
Also, the undersides of his cheeks do have fold lines, but the angles shouldn’t be very sharp, but nearly flat (maybe it works eve better if you don’t fold them ;o)
I made two quick schematics that hopefully show what I mean better. Especially the triangular back may seem weird to glue to the rectangular back of the neck, but if you look at the 3D images, you will see that it’s actually quite a nice fit. ;o) You can see the quick sketches and 3D images here.
Of course the digital 3D world is a perfect world, and in the final papercraft, it is easy to “accidentally” shift the pieces a little so you don’t get 100% the exact angles as in the 3D model, making the fit a little different.
But don’t worry if you’re having a little trouble, I think the most important thing is to make sure the front looks good, and then get the rest of the head/neck to fit as well as you can (“sink” the head inside the neck as well as you can). Maybe these two pictures will convince you it’s not a huge disaster if you can’t get a perfect fit. ;o)
I hope this helps explain things a little, good luck and have fun building!
okay!
i successfully decapitated him, and am now waiting for the glue to dry.
im not looking forward to the sword.
I did a shoutout to your website in my latest youtube vlog!
Thanks for the shoutout! I’m glad to hear you like my work! ;o)
Why doesn’t the Midna papercraft have lines? The wolflink one does and its really helpful.
It does have a few, but not many. papercrafts look way better if you dont fold them, unless its a young link or from the N64. try a papercraft without folding it. it looks better and takes less time
Nick is right, Midna only has a few fold lines because it’s an “SLM”, a smooth look model.
I like the polygonal look on “older” video games like the classic Tomb Raiders or the N64 Zeldas, but for many models, I tried to give them a “smoother”, “curvier” look.
I think it depends on the model wether or not it suits the models and looks better ;o) but I do agree it takes less time to build an SLM (because you can save the time needed to score the fold lines).
It’s always worth pre-shaping your models, but especially SLM’s I think: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hCwL4HW12w
you should think about showing showing A, “how to make a young link paper model”
Don’t the instructions explain it? Or are you after a guide to create your own papercraft models? If you mean the second one, have a look at this:http://www.nintendopapercraft.com/labels/How%20to.html
It’s got all the important info on doing this.
Yeah, people often ask me how I make a papercraft model. As far as my computer generated models are concerned, it’s basically the same as everybody else: unfolding a 3D model (made from scratch or rebuilt from an existing model) with Pepakura Designer.
Pepakura Designer is very intuitive to use, the difference is in the preparation of the 3D model.
I think it’s very important to understand what you’re actually trying to do: there’s a *big* difference between making a 3D model to make a 3D model, and making a 3D model to make a papercraft model.
Once you realize that everything will be unfolded flat, printed, cut out, and glued together again in paper form, you can try to make the most of that process: http://ninjatoespapercraft.deviantart.com/art/Paper-modelling-secret-121920237
i have two questions.how do you change the line color in pepakura, ad whats this zora armour link ive been hearing about ;)
the thing about the line colour in pepakura is, when you score the lines, it gets a little lighter, so if we were to make the lines a bit darker, then the papercraft would be easier, and would look better!
(obviously for dark areas you would go lighter.)
After you have unfolded your 3D model in Pepakura Designer, you can right click in the “Development area” and in the context menu that pop ups, you can choose the option “Color edge”.
Then you can choose a color you want, and with the tool, you can click the edges you want to give a different color (with the eraser tool, you can hide them).
In Pepakura Viewer, you can’t change the color of the lines, but you can set the thickness and transparancy of the lines in the Settings > Printer settings menu.
Zora armor Link is the new project I’ve been working on: http://ninjatoes.blogspot.com/ ;o)
Really awesome stuff you have your site!! I admire all of your work :D would be great if you did one of Dante from Devil May Cry 3
I do know of a 3DPaper.com commercial paper Dante model, from DMC2 I think.
Like I told Mike though, I’m pretty busy with Zora armor Link in my scarce spare time, so I’m afraid I can’t make one myself right now, sorry…