About me

I love paper models! ;o)

So I made my own for you to download and build for free right here on my papercraft webpage and feature lots of other people’s free papercraft models and my own works in progress on my papercraft weblog!

Have fun building!

91 thoughts on “About me

  1. Very , Very Very Very good papercrafts and i’m THE best fan of Zelda please continue your papercrafts ^^

    1. Thank you, I’m glad you like my papercraft models! I’m a big Zelda fan myself as well, so I’m planning to make lots more papercraft Zelda models in the future! ;o)

  2. You should do a link from majoras mask but with the gilded sword and mirror shield that would be awesome

    1. I’m a big Zelda fan, and I’d love to do more paper Links with different equipment, but I can’t promise you when I’ll get around to it! ;o)

  3. Wow! I’ve been looking for the Alice papercraft for ages and here it is!!! Thank you so much! I am going to do it right away!
    Please continue the amazing work and i look forward to making more papercrafts.

  4. Hi Ninjatoes, I just finished the Going Merry model, i´m glad with you , because you shared this to the people.
    Thank you

    Atte. Felipe Ruiz

    1. I got the pictures you sent me, I’m happy to hear you liked the model!

      I’ve added the pictures to the hall of fame, I hope you like it: link

      Have fun building!

  5. Hello Ninjatoes you have such great quality models. I just made your sora papercraft model and it was fantastic. I was wondering if you’ll ever make a roxas papercraft model (about the same size to go) with it. If you do I’m sure I will definitely build it. :D Thanks.

    1. Thanks, I’m glad you like my papercraft Sora so much! ;o)

      I plan on making many more Kingdom Hearts models, and when I do Roxas, I think I’ll make him in the same scale as Sora, but I can’t promise when that will be, sorry!

      1. If you make all of Kingdom Hearts 2 characters together and to scale… That would be the most awesome thing ever =O

  6. my question is: How do you fold fairly large pieces of paper? at the moment for an example i guess. i’m on cremia’s wagon… and hopefully you can understand me since it’s hard to explain? is…

    the way i fold the large pieces is….. make the bend of the old little by little…. until it basically fold itself… and just put pressure on the bends i made in order to get the fold…. but obviously…. that isn’t very accurate with the old itself to show minimill white line…..

    so… I’m asking is… how do you do it in order for it t be a perfect fold i guess? basically like the little ones… you fold and it’s fine…thats what i want for a large fold… hopefully i made myself clear :/

    1. To make nice, straight and crisp folds, it’s best to “score” the fold lines first.

      This simply means making a little dent or groove along the fold line. You can use a blunt object like an empty ballpoint or a special embossing tool, or you can simply use your knife and only apply a little pressure (but some people don’t like this technique because you can get white lines on your model this way).

      In Yamaha’s papercraft tutorial, they use a mechical pencil without the actual pencil lead (the video is in the folding part of the basic instructions).

      Most people just score the fold lines by hand, but you can use a ruler to guide your tool of course. You can score the backside of the paper to avoid any marks on the printed side, but most people just score the front.

      Once you have properly scored the parts, you will only have to apply a little pressure to make the paper fold along the fold lines.

  7. I guess this is a stupid question. But i really need to know. How do you build a model without the ‘white line’ showing. My guess it’s the glue tag showing? Which if im right. Worked extremly well on my Ganondorf model, compared to my other 4 at the time. Since there is NO white showing. Example: Where the pieces conect from one to the other.

    BUT, in the model im doing now “Twilight Princess Link” i’ve been doing basically the same s i did on ganondorf. Is it my lack of skill? Or is it the thikness or my paper? (I’ve only been able to find 2 types of thickness where i live. (Mexico) And the more expensive paper isn’t really accepted by the printers. Or it it simply the type of model which in this case…ther pieces are curved and not folded?

    Also…. above explanation. How do i measure the thickness or paper. Since in SOME models it basically specifies what thickness i should print like in Paper Mario Model/ Diorama. It says “Print on > 160g/m2” Any advice? And thank you in advace :D! I am also starying to ENJOY paper modeling. EXCEPT, cutting the pieces *cries!) :”(

    1. All the glueing tabs *should* get covered up by the parts you have to glue on top of them of course, but sometimes when you’re trying to go a bit too fast, it’s easy to misalign the parts a bit, and then you can get a little bit of white showing…

      But the most important factor in “white lines” showing, is the actual crossection of the paper: when you cut out the parts and glue them on top of eachother, you can see the edge of the paper, which is basically the white “inside” of the paper. And of course: the thicker the paper, the thicker the “white line” will be.

      There’s not much you can do about that beforehand (since you can’t reach the inside of the paper yet ;o) but after you’ve cut out the parts, you can colour the edges with a pencil or marker in the appropriate colour (I made a small video tutorial about it on my YouTube channel here some time ago).

      You can also colour part of the glueing tabs, so you can afford to make little mistakes, although the real “trick” to avoid white lines because of the glueing tabs showing, is to just take your time aligning the parts properly (you should always do that anyway of course ;o)

      Papercrafters don’t usually measure the thickness of the paper in its thickness, but in its weight because you can’t really acurately measure the thickness without special tools.

      Many countries use the metric system, which measures the paper weight in “grams per square meter” (gsm or g/m²). The paper weight should be on the package, but if it isn’t you could weigh 1 square meter of sheets of paper (if it’s ISO A4 paper that means you can just weigh 16 sheets ;o) and see how much it weighs. ;o)

      But you really shouldn’t worry about it too much: it’s much more important to use the kind of paper that you like using and that you can easily get in a shop nearby than using the exact same paper just because somebody else uses it; I use 200 gsm paper myself, but a lot of people like using thinner paper like 160 gsm (regular printer paper is about 80 gsm).

    1. You mean of Batman himself? I’m a big Batman fan, so he’s definately on my to do-list! But with all the other ideas I have, it might be a long time before I get around to making him…

      Most Batman models on the internet are simple hako’s, and boxheads… But I do know of one made by Kezn on the Zealot hobby forums that is much bigger and much more detailed (although it hasn’t got any textures unfortunately…).

      The thread made by Kezn is here, and some pictures can be found here.

      The lack of colour is a real shame, but it looks very challenging! ;o)

  8. Hey Ninjatoes’,

    I just built my first model (not one of yours :( , cthulhu: http://www.onemonk.com/Products.html).

    You have some awesome models here, and I’m definately going to try one of yours next – probably Buffy or Link. I need to get some heavier paper first – the 24lb I had didn’t work great. Cthulhu’s a little wobbly.

    Can I ask how you go about creating these models? I’d love to take a run at it some day [Unless 3D printers drop in price before I get around to it ;)].

    Do you start with models or textures from the games, or from scratch?

    Most game models (newer ones anyways) have too high a poly count, so if you use game models, do you reduce them somehow, or redo them?

    Is Buffy from scratch or from the gamecube game?

    What CG software do you use/recommend for modelling? I use solidworks at work, but I doubt that it would

    Thanks for this AMAZING site!

    1. I’m not really familiar with Solidworks, but really any 3D software that with the basic functions of creating and editing 3D shapes and textures will do just fine (especially if you already have lots of experience with it ;o)

      I use Metasequoia and/or Sketchup myself, and then Pepakura Designer to unfold the model.

      For most of my videogame papercraft models (including Buffy ;o) I use the original game model as an underlying “layer” to get all the basic shapes and proportions right, and on top of that I make a simplified model that (I hope ;o) will be more fun to build out of paper in the end.

      Especially newer games with more detailed 3D models like Kingdom Heart’s Oogie Boogie for example often have a lot of parts that would become too small or just too awkward too build otherwise…

      I hope that answered your questions, I have some more examples on my DeviantArt but other than that, it’s really just a matter of building lots of paper models and getting some feeling for what works, and what doesn’t.

      Have fun!

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