Contact

Whether you want me to add your picture in the hall of fame, or you found a broken link, or you just want to tell me how much you like my papercraft models (right? ;o) you can send me an email to ninjatoes@home.nl or use this contact form:

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374 thoughts on “Contact

  1. Omgosh these are soooo adorablely fun!
    It would be awesome if there was a Dalek roaming around the random section! XD Lol but I wants to see if Im even a quarter-awesome at paper like you X3

  2. Hey hello again,

    I’d just like to know what a good cutting tool is for cutting paper for papercrafting.

    I know that you use an x-acto knife in most of your models, but I’m in Australia and I don’t think it’s available here. It seems all the knives that I have aren’t sharp enough to cut through 200gsm paper.

    Any suggestions on a popular brand of knife fit for the job?

    1. Although X-Acto knives are sold all over the world, so I’m sure that you could find some in Australia, it’s really just a brand name, and there are many other craft knives of course.

      All of them should be able to cut through 200 gsm, though! Otherwise it’s time to replace the blade, because it is probably dull… ;o)

      Many people use those cheap, break-away blades that you can find in any department store in the hobby section, while other use specialized cutting tools like scalpels.

      But like I said, any craft knife should easily be able to cut through 200 gsm paper. If you’re using a rubber cutting mat, maybe you’re using too much pressure? You only need to cut through the paper, not the cutting mat as well of course, maybe that’s why it’s so difficult to cut?

      I hope you can find a good knife, don’t worry too much about brand names though, in the hobby section of any store you’re likely to find a good, affordable blade!

      Have fun building!

      1. Actually, because I don’t have a good knife to cut with (or any craft knife for that matter), I use scissors. I mean it’s all very well, but to cut out some of the circles in the parts sometimes can be difficult. I have to poke holes in them with another sharp object. And some other things like small glueing tabs are a pain to cut out as well.

        Thanks for you help nevertheless. :)

        1. Personally, I do prefer a knife above a pair of scissors, but more people use scissors, so don’t worry you’re not the only one! ;o)

          Using a knife is very different from using scissors to cut out papercraft parts, but whether it is *better* different, that’s something only you can decide!

          So I would say: try it out and see what you think of it! ;o)

          Have fun building!

  3. Hey, it’s me again,

    I just wanna inquire about the Advance Wars models.

    I find very frequently that when I’ve done the head and the helmet of the person that the helmet is too big, and therefore hard to glue.
    Any suggestions on how to avoid this?

    Thanks

    1. Well, the helmets are supposed to be placed over the heads a little, so if *should* be little bit bigger. Apply a decent amount of glue to the top edge of the edge and then simply place the helmet on top.

      If the helmet is really too big and ends up covering most of the face, maybe you can try making the two ends of the helmet overlap a little more when you glue it together, and/or the two ends of the head a little less.

      That way, the helmet will end up a little smaller and the head a little bigger. ;o)

  4. Hi, I download the MilkShape3D program and I was wondering if you can help me doing my characters, they’re not too difficult because they are like 64 characters, I’m new in this and I just can make a face but I cant’ add textures prettu well and I want to make a game.

    Thanks

    P.S. I wrote my E-mail in the box so you cand send me an e-mail or something.

    1. I’m very sorry, but I really don’t have the time to help you with that I’m afraid… But I think since you chose Milkshape as your 3D program, that you can already find lots of tutorials that can help you online, because it is a very popular program!

      There will undoubtedly be many people that have asked the same questions as you before on forums, and many people that will be able to answer your questions. Don’t forget about YouTube either: a lot of people upload free video tutorials there, for Milkshape 3D as well!

      And of course, after all that, don’t forget that it will always be a matter of practice and experience, learning from your earlier tries and improving every time. If you want to learn a skill, you need to invest a proper amount of time of course, so don’t feel bad if you don’t succeed right away!

      Sometimes it can be very frustrating if you know the solution is probably something very simple, and then often, you get *so* frustrated that you can’t get the simplest things to work straight anymore and you start to think that you will *never* succeed and just give up or ask somebody else to do it… ;o)

      Then it is often better to take a break from your project, and then a week or so later, when your head is clear again you can search much more systematical for an answer to your problems, either online with a search term that you never thought of before, or just by figuring it out yourself by playing around with Milkshape and clicking some buttons you never tried before. ;o)

      I’m sorry I can’t really give you more help than this, but I hope you can use some of these tips to help you find an answer to your problems so you can go on with your project yourself!

      Good luck and have fun!

      greetz ninjatoes

      1. oK, thanks for your tips, and don’t worry, I’ll search tutorials, can you tell me some page where I can see a Zelda Ocarina of Time 3D models or something?
        Thanks again and keep going with your papercrafts.

        1. The best place to see Ocarina of Time models is in the game of course! ;o)

          But with the Zelda series being so popular, I’m sure you can also find some models from the game that you could use for reference online if you do a little searching. ;o)

  5. Hey hello,

    I just wanna say that I like your Advance Wars models very much. I just started papercrafting a month ago or so.
    However, some of your Advance Wars models involving small moving parts and people are hard to put together (especially the head and helmet) because they (and the glue tabs) are rather small. It would be great if you could make your models on a larger scale for ease of construction and for a better end result (I believe that larger papercrafts are easier and quicker to make and look better when they’re done).

    Not to be pedantic, but I notice that not all of the Advance Wars units are available for download yet, such as an Orange Star tank or any helicopters. I understand that you might be busy but it would be nice to have a full range to choose from.

    Bye

    1. Thanks, I’m glad you like my Advance Wars models! When I first started making them, I didn’t want to make them very big, and I chose a scale that I was comfortable with and of course now I want to make all of them in the same scale! ;o)

      I often use tools like a toothpick to pre-shape small parts, which makes them much easier to build. But if you want to print the parts bigger, you are of course free to do so! ;o)

      My papercraft Advance Wars series is an ongoing project, and I regularly make new units. But you’re right, because this is just a hobby of mine (I can’t exactly work on it 24/7… ;o) and making a new paper model is a lot of work, it will take some time before all the units are paperfied. ;o)

  6. Moin Moin!
    Hey..i just wanted to aks, if you have an advice for me about the glue…cuz it has to stick fast but not too fast…i havent found anything like this until now….

    1. The glue I use myself is called “Tesa hobbylijm” (or “Tesa All-Purpose Glue” in English).

      It works great for me, but everybody has their own favourite glue, a lot of people use Elmer brand glue (a white PVA glue) or even wood glue, and all kinds of other glues.

      I think the most important thing, is not to use too much glue! Don’t smear on a big puddle of glue, but only a little, and spread it out until it is just tacky/sticky.

      Then when you put on the other part, you will still be able to move it a bit if you need to, but when you press the parts firmly between your fingers, the parts will almost instantly be stuck together.

      Try it with your own glue, and if it really doesn’t work, see what other glues they have at your local stores: most of the times, the glue that they made you use in kindergarten works surprisingly well!

      I hope you’ll find a good glue that works for you, good luck and have fun building!

  7. Hello. I would first like to say that your models are some of the best I have seen on the web, and that the attention to detail is second to none.

    I am a huge fan, and have built most of the Legend of Zelda models my self, my favorite being the SSBM version of link.

    Secondly, I would like to make a request, if possible. I would absolutely love it if you could make a version of link with the magic armor from Twilight Princess. With the amount of detail in your models, this armor would look outstanding in papercraft form.

    Thanks, and keep up the superior work.

    1. Thank you for the compliments! I might make a Magic armour Link in the future, but with all the other papercraft ideas I also have, I can’t promise you when, sorry! ;o)

  8. Hi, I think your model are AMAZING. I recently finished American Mcgees Alice and it is, so far, the best and most complicated model I have ever assembled ( I’ll send some pictures later). I had some minnor troubles with it: I took it to a special shot to print it and asked for 160gr paper. The model holds real good, but sometimes the ink falled apart (I guess they used some kind of photo-like ink….is there any other kind of kin I should ask for ? )
    Well, I have a simple request to make: i’ve been searching for a while and I still can’t find a decent Batman Papercraft ! What the hell, the Dark Knight doesn’t have a cool papecraft model (just some cartoonish crap) !?!? I would really appreciate if you can make one ( with fingers and all the pretty details, just like Alice has :D )

    Cheers and keep up the good work ! For the moment I’ll havo satisfy my papercraft-hunger with a nice 23cm Goku papercraft :P

    1. It might be the kind of ink that was used, or the paper itself that has a special top layer.

      Basically, there are two kinds of printers: inkjet printers and laserjet printers. Laserjet printers work by basically “melting” miniscule particles of plastic powder (toner) onto the paper (instead of just “spraying” on the ink as a inkjet printer would).

      So if you print an image, you basically end up with a very thin layer of plastic on top of your paper. And you can imagine that when you try to fold and bend it like you need to do when building a papercraft model, it can crack…

      People using laserprints have told me sometimes that that happens to their prints, so if that’s the case, then maybe you could ask them to print it on a regular inkjet printer next time and see if helps?

      It may also be the paper. Some types of paper, like glossy paper, or photo paper, have a laminated glossy or photographic top layer. And again, if you need to bend or fold it, you can imagine that sometimes that top layer lets go of the bottom layers that it’s joined to.

      Although some people say it’s not a problem for them, others say it is, so if they used special glossy or photo paper, maybe you can ask them to use normal paper, that’s thicker than regular paper but doesn’t have a special finish and see if it helps?

      Of course the model won’t have a “shiny finish” after it’s built, but if you like that, you can try spraying it with a thin layer of varnish or lacquer or some similar finish. If you want to try this though, I recommend you test it out on a quick and sloppy “replaceable” build first to avoid ruining one of your good models…! ;o)

      I hope this helps!

      1. It was a laserjet printer indeed. I doub’t they have a regular inkjet printer, but I’ll ask. Anyways, I easely solved that problem by simply painting with a regular marker and using some makeup for the skin parts.
        The “shiny finish” is not the only benefit, the most important ones are moist and dust resistance….but thats what the varnish layer is for :) I’ve also read that hair spray fixative should do the trick.
        Thanks for the tips !

        As for the Batman model ? If you don’t like Batman, what about Superman, Green Arrow, Shazam, Zatanna , Green Lantern or Darkseid ? LOL, I want my DC characters papercraft collection :)
        Are you working on any other model …or is it s surprise ?

        1. Sorry I forgot all about your Batman question…! ;o)

          But it’s safe to say that I’m a big Batman fan (hence my Batmobile ;o) and a model of the Dark Knight himself is an obvious choice for a new future model of course… ;o)

          Right now I’m working on finishing Twilight Link, and I can’t promise you any dates when I’ll make a Batman model though, sorry…

          I happen to know there’s a very detailed Batman model over at Zealot, made by Kezn, although it doesn’t have any colour and is very difficult to make…! ;o)

          1. WOW…that Batman model is superb…and far too complicated. That WAY out of my league.
            I can wait, I dont have any problems. Goku’s model is the next in line. Maybe I’ll try your batmobile next :)
            I’ll keep up checking your site for new awsome models !

  9. what type of paper do you use for your models? These models are AMAZING!!! and i would love to try to make some of them!!!

    1. I normally use 200 gsm paper (I think in the US it’s about equivalent to 110 lbs index paper) but no glossy or photo paper.

      But many people use different thicknesses (sometimes normal paper which is about 80 gsm, but most people seem to use 120-160 gsm paper).

      Some people even use different thicknesses for different parts on the same model, and some people do use glossy or photgraphic paper, but I never do.

      So it’s really a matter of finding your own preference. And don’t worry if you can’t find 200 gsm or 110 lbs anywhere near you. If the store where you buy your regular paper doesn’t have it, I’m sure they can order it for you, but if they do have a slightly less thicker paper than that, then try it out and see if you like it! ;o)

      greetz ninjatoes

  10. Hi
    Have u ever plaed MGS?
    Can you make Solid Snake from MGS Twin Snakes?
    That would be awesome <.<
    Love your work keep going!

    Thanks

      1. Aww, oK, Thanks
        But how did you get the images of the characters?
        Did u use Proj64 or something like that?
        Where can I downloa it?
        Thanks
        I love your work, hope you made more

        1. Project64 is a Nintendo 64 emulator, so it only plays N64 games.

          For PC CD-ROM games that use DirectX9 technology, 3D Ripper DX often works pretty well, but not always… ;o)

          And sometimes fans of a particular game (which the Metal Gear series has plenty of ;o) make special model viewers that sometimes lets you convert the 3D model from the game format to a more usuable format for 3D applications. For those you’d have to scour the fansites and forums of the game to find them (if they exist of course).

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