Contact

Whether you want me to add your picture in the hall of fame, or you found a broken link, or you just want to tell me how much you like my papercraft models (right? ;o) you can send me an email to ninjatoes@home.nl or use this contact form:

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374 thoughts on “Contact”

    1. I really like the Simpsons, so I would love to make some more Simpsons papercraft models including Bart of course; but because I have so many other ideas as well, and only so much spare time to work on my papercraft hobby, I can’t promise you when I’ll finally get around to a specific model I’m afraid…

      But there are other papercrafters that like the Simpsons too of course, and you can already find a big Bart Simpson riding his skateboard made by Warzonefury here for example: http://paperwar.blogspot.com/2013/02/bart-simpson-46-cm.html

      I don’t know if you can find more models like that, but you can find a lot of simple but neat paper toys like these cute ones from Mini Papercraft: http://minipapercraft.blogspot.com/2013/01/the-simpsons.html

      Or from CyberDrone: http://cyberdrone.deviantart.com/gallery/25330390
      Or TheFlyingDachshund: http://theflyingdachshund.deviantart.com/gallery/38520390

      And I’m sure you can find a lot more neat little Simpsons paper toys! ;o)

      I know there were some pre-printed papercraft kits of Homer from Hasbro / Milton Bradley MB Creation “Paper Art” (“Foldin Art” in some countries) series a few years back and Bart (leaning on his skateboard), but I don’t know if you could still find them in toy stores. You can still find the kits sites like Amazon or eBay, but be careful what you buy there! (sometimes people get a picture of the box from internet, but in reality they are really only selling digital scans of the templates they found online…)

      Reply

  2. Hi, i was wondering if it would be good to use 110 pound paper. I finally got card stock, so i was making sure that it was a good thickness, so far its been good for crafting :). Thanks, Samy

    Reply

    1. That’s very difficult to say for me, but very easy for you! ;o)

      Really the only rule is: if you like working with it, and you like the end result you get with it, it’s good paper/cardstock to use! ;o)

      In many countries, “paper weight” is measured in gsm (grams per square meters). Regular printer paper is 75-80 gsm, and 200 gsm paper (the kind I like to use) is *always* 2.5x thicker than 80 gsm.

      Other people often tell me they like using 120-160 gsm paper too (1.5x – 2x as thick as regular, 80 gsm printer paper) or even special glossy or photopaper.

      But if the paper weight is measured in pounds (lbs), you can’t really automatically say that 110 lbs paper is 2x as thick as 55 lbs paper for example, because it also depends on which *type* and *size* of paper it is (bond, vellum, cardstock, index, cover, and there are many more and the same paper weights of different types of paper all correspond to a different thickness…)

      So it’s also impossible to say whether 110 lbs is the same as 200 gsm, or that it’s the same as 160 gsm, or… :o(

      There are many conversion charts like the ones on this website: http://www.casepaper.com/resources/calculators/equivalent-weights-grammage-conversion/

      But like I said: much more important than choosing a specific paperweight or thickness that somebody else uses too, is to make sure *you* like working with it.

      So if it’s been good so far, I would just stick with it! (some pun intended ;o)

      And of course if you want to try out some other thicker or thinner paper some time, you can see if you like it better or not (you don’t have to keep using the same paper all the time of course! ;o)

      Have fun crafting!

      Reply

      1. Okay, thank you a lot…..
        America and its habit to use different units XD. I was also wondering if you knew, or had any Captain america papercraft… that would be cool also, thanks, samy

        Reply

        1. Captain America is very popular of course, so you can find a lot of papercraft toys of him; here are a few examples, but I’m sure you can find lots more! ;o)

          http://minipapercraft.blogspot.com/2012/04/captain-america-mini-papercraft.html
          http://mypaperheroes.blogspot.com/2010/05/captain-america.html
          http://paperinside.com/characters/park-heroes/marvel/
          http://blog.patokon.com/2011/09/marvel-comics-wobbleheads-captain.html
          http://www.cubeecraft.com/cubee/captain-america-movie
          http://squareheadpapercraft.blogspot.com/2012/06/captain-america-avengers-movie-version.html

          I also know of a much more detailed papercraft Captain America made by Action Papercrafts some time ago:
          http://actionpapercrafts.blogspot.com/2009/04/39cm-captain-america-papercraft.html

          I don’t think there are many more like that yet, but I could be wrong of course, so it’s always worth looking around on other papercraft sites and forums too! ;o)

          Have fun!

          Reply

  3. I’m glad that you liked the model of the Flash based upon Batman. I may use one of the models of Lara Croft to make a model of Wonder Woman if I don’t use the Trucy Wright model instead.

    Here is my request: My brother wanted a model of Apu from “The Simpsons” series. I request that one. Apu is the Indian-America who ran the Kwik-E-Mart. Thanks

    Reply

    1. I always like it when people can have fun with papercraft! ;o)

      But as for Apu… I do like the Simpsons and Apu but I really can’t promise you if/when I’ll ever make a paper model of him… I know Cyberdrone made a Cubee of him: http://cyberdrone.deviantart.com/art/Cubee-Apu-187387563 but I can’t remember seeing more detailed paper models of him yet (that doesn’t mean there really definitely aren’t any of course! ;o)

      I’m sorry to have to disappoint you and your brother, but I’m afraid I really don’t have the time to do specific requests for other people, sorry…! :o(

      Reply

      1. Hello,

        That’s okay. I like modifying other models to make something else. Already I used 2 of your models to make other items: Lara Croft was used to make Black Widow and the shoes for Paprika and Batman was used to make the Flash. I considered using Homer Simpson to make Apu, but Homer Simpson is just too obese.

        I was looking at Captain Linebeck from The Legend of Zelda here:

        The Legend of Zelda Captain Linebeck

        The legs can be lengthened and the face can be altered via coloring and the clothes of course can be altered and magically: Apu appears!

        Hence you already provided assistance anyway. Okay, Captain Linebeck seems like the key toward Apu.

        Thanks.

        Sincerely,

        David

        Reply

        1. I’m happy to hear you enjoy working on your paper models so much, and I think it shows in the results! I don’t think Homer would make a good Apu either… ;o) Linebeck will also need a lot of changes I think, but you’ve shown that that isn’t a big problem for you, so I hope you can get your plans to work again, have fun!

          Reply

  4. What type of glue would you recommend for doing these models? I’ve been really wanting to do some of these, but i’m unsure what glues will hold. Also, will 120gsm thin card support the models (higher gsm is really hard to find here)?

    On a final note. These models are excellent and I can’t wait to build them

    Reply

    1. I always use “TESA All-purpose” hobby glue myself (90 grams bottle as can be seen on the TESA website here: link) but just like with paper, it’s best to find a glue you can easily get instead of searching high and low for a specific brand. ;o)

      Many people use “white PVA” glue, which is basically “kid’s school glue”, like “Elmer’s Glue” or “Aleene’s Tacky Glue” (two very popular brands in the US) or “Uhu” (another popular brand in Europe).

      You can also use simple wood glue / carpenter’s glue, because it will also glue two pieces of paper just fine. ;o)

      Whichever you choose though, the most important thing is not to use too much glue. Use only a small amount and spread it out or else it will take ages to dry… But after you’ve made a few papercraft models, you will get a feeling for how much glue you need exactly.

      Just like with glue, there’s not really one, definitive answer on which paper you “should” use. I always use 200 gsm (grams per square meter) paper, which is quite thick (about 2.5x as thick as regular printer paper which is usually about 75-80 gsm) simply because I like working with it and I like how it makes the final paper model nice and strong.

      But other people often tell me they use anything from 120 gsm or 160 gsm or even 220 gsm sometimes, and others like using regular printer paper or even special glossy or photo paper.

      So it’s really a personal choice, and the best way to find out if you like 120 gsm is to try it out on a simple model! ;o)

      Then if you do want to try some thicker paper, normally the store where you got the 120 gsm should also be able to order thicker paper if you ask them about it if they don’t already have it, and maybe they will even let you try a few sheets first if you explain them that you just want to try it out first before having to buy a whole package.

      I made a “papercraft FAQ” some time ago with basic tips (link) and the Yamaha company has a really neat tutorial with video clips about basic papercraft building techniques that’s definitely worth a look: link

      But like I said, most of it is really just personal preference depending on what you have to work with when you first start, and once you’ve put together a few paper models, you will quickly come up with your own ideas I think! ;o)

      Have fun! ;o)

      Reply

      1. Thanks, I’ll give PVA a try as there aren’t many hobby shops here (I live outside a major metropolitan city) and paper here pretty much comes in heavy cardboard or standard printer paper (I live in Australia), i’ve been building a basic model and it looks like the 120gsm will hold fine. Thanks for the tips!

        Reply

    1. I’m a big Zelda fan, so anything is possible, but because I have so many other ideas as well, I really can’t promise you which Zelda models I will make in the future beforehand, or when exactly…

      But I’m not the only papercrafter that likes Zelda of course! ;o) There are already a few people that made a papercraft Skyloft Zelda, like Orel67: http://orel67spapers.blogspot.com/2012/05/zelda-skyward-sword.html

      And Paper Juke: http://paperjuke.blogspot.com/2012/09/papercraft-zelda-skyloft-skyward-sword.html

      And Philipp from Kamibox made a simplified version: http://www.kamibox.de/download.html

      I hope you’ll like one of those enough to give them a try, have fun!

      Reply

    1. I think anything is possible to make out of paper really! ;o) I’m definitely a big Zelda fan, so I want to make many more papercraft models from the Zelda series, but I can’t promise you which ones or when I’ll make a new one, sorry…!

      Reply

  7. I feel bad to keep bugging you, but I’m having another issue ;__;
    I don’t understand how part 27 and part 28 are suppose to attatch on the Fierce Deity Link paper craft ;-;
    Don’t hurt me for my ignorance Dx -hides behind a brick wall-

    Reply

    1. To make the face, it’s important to make sure you make all the valley folds and mountain folds correctly.

      First fold and glue together the ears on part 27 by following the little black arrow on the templates: the ears will be like very sharp “pyramid” shapes if you follow all the fold lines correctly.

      There is one valley fold where each ear is attached to the rest of the face so they point outwards a bit, and two small valley folds on each side of the nose, so you get kind of a triangular nose shape like you can see in step 41 of the instructions.

      Then, on part 28 you can see the nostrils on the little triangle shape above the mouth: that little triangle should be glued to the bottom of the nose, as shown in step 41.

      Keep following all the fold lines and examine the step-by-step instructions closely, and everything should fit together automatically. Try it without glue first to make sure it does before you glue it together.

      The face, hat and especially the hair of Oni Link are the trickiest parts I think, so take your time to make sure you folded all the fold lines correctly and check with the PDF version if the fold lines are hard to see on the printed version.

      For the hair and cap, there is some extra help again in my Picasa webalbums if you click the numbered links in the Fierce Deity Link post: https://ninjatoes.wordpress.com/2008/09/21/the-legend-of-zelda-fierce-deity-link/

      Take your time making sure you got all the folds right and I’m sure you can do it! ;o)

      Reply

  8. Hello! I’m having some trouble with the Fierce Deity Link papercraft :c
    I need some help attatching parts 16 and 17. I don’t understand how I’m suppose to assemble part 17, and how I’m suppose to attach it to part 16 Dx
    I had a simmilar problem with parts 7 and 8, but I managed to figure that out.
    I’ve tried lots of different ways to assemble and connect parts 16 and 17, but none look right!
    Please help. ;~;

    Reply

    1. Hi there! I’m happy to hear you were able to solve the problem with parts 7 and 8 by trying out different ways without glue first, because often if you try a few different ways, you will find the right one quickly enough. ;o)

      But sometimes it’s a little bit more difficult, but the first thing you should do is always to make sure you scored and folded all the fold lines on the parts the right way: sometimes they are very difficult to see on the printed version, so check them next to the PDF file on your computer so you can zoom in and see them more clearly if needed.

      I think what may be confusing you part about parts 16 and 17, is that you don’t have to “close” them at first: the backside is still open until later, when you have to glue the arm to the body (in step 33 of the instructions).

      For parts 16 and 17, all you have to do is fold/shape them a little bit following the fold lines so that part 16 is is kinda like a little dome, and then you can glue on part 17 in sort of a “U”-shape with the open side on the same side as part 16 with just two of the glueing tabs (the other ones aren’t connected to anything yet!)

      Part 18 is a “normal” part again, with 4 closed sides and closed a “bottom”. You can glue it to part 17 like they are positioned on the template, so the “backside half” of part 18 won’t be glued to anything yet in step 26 of the instructions!

      It’s difficult to explain papercraft in words (maybe I’m only confusing you more… :o( but I hope you can understand what I mean when you have the parts in front of you, and because I had a little bit of time, I’ve made a small schematic here: link

      Later in step 33 when you can glue the arm to the body, I think you will understand why the top part of the arm is left open (maybe it will help if you make the body from step 31 to step 33 of the instructions first?)

      So keep trying, and then I’m sure you can do it! In steps 33, 34, 39, 52, 55 and 56 of the instructions you can see what it should look like if the arm is attached to the body, maybe seeing those pictures will help you understand it better too?

      If I remember correctly, there are only a few parts that are like this, so I hope you can get past them and finish your papercraft Fierce Deity Link!

      Good luck and have fun!

      Reply

  9. I was wondering, if you had a strategy for attaching the hat to Mario’s head. I tried, and i had to scrap his hat, so im trying again, but if you had a strategy for attaching it, plz tell me.

    :0 Im stumped

    Reply

    1. Do you mean on the papercraft Mario that I made: link ?

      The most important part of course, is to first make sure all the parts are shaped and glued together properly. The head has a flat top (on part 1) and you can cut out the piece with the orange “scissors” icon, so you can put your fingers inside the head while assembling the rest of the head.

      The bottom of Mario’s hat is open, so you can also put your fingers inside the hat to shape and assemble it. Pre-shaping is important, so the open bottom of the hat (part 24) is almost a circle: the mirror/opposite of the big, flat white top of the head.

      If you can pre-shape the bottom of the hat to be the opposite of the top of the head, all you have to do really is to apply some glue to the glueing tabs on the bottom of the head, and gently but firmly push on top of the hat (it helps if you use strong, thicker paper, so the hat won’t crush when you push it) to put it on top of Mario’s head.

      When the glue has almost dried but you can still move the parts a bit (don’t use too much glue or it will take a very long time to dry enough…) you can gently push against the bottom of the hat to make it fit the top of the head even better.

      The back and sides of the head/hat are the parts that are most visible, so start there and get that as good as you can, and because the front of Mario’s hat has a flap, it won’t be so noticable if that’s not 100% perfect (but still try your best to shape and glue it on the best you can of course! ;o)

      In the end, it really is just a matter of shaping the bottom of the hat the best you can, and working out where to push exactly to shape it while you’re glueing it on until the glue dries and you can let go. Take your time and try to see if you can shape and get it to fit without glue first, and when you’re satisfied, apply some glue and take your time to put it on there the best you can! ;o)

      Reply

        1. Haha, now that I look at it, the shape of part 28 on the template does look a bit like a pair of scissors! ;o)

          But I guess you already understood that I really did mean the “scissors” on part 1? The orange scissors icon means you can cut out the circle, so you have a hole that you can use to put your fingers through when you’re trying to assemble the head.

          It’s not absolutely necessary to cut it out, but it helps a lot I think, and it will get covered up by Mario’s hat so you won’t see the hole later on.

          Have fun building!

          Reply

  10. I really thank you for including instructions with your papercraft models! it helps me a lot. it is nice that you spend extra time to make the instructions! Thank you very much once again.

    :-)

    Reply

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