January 4th 2025 I had a big stroke…
I lived, but have to go through a long recovery
to see what I can still do in the future…

Hopefully it will be a lot…! 👍 Always keep having fun papercrafting!

Which papercraft model would you like to build?

 

What’s papercraft?” you ask?

Well, that’s when (in this case ;o)  you download and print a page of 2D parts (preferably on some thicker paper) cut them out and fold them, and then glue them together to make your very own 3D paper model of your favourite game/anime/movie character/whatever you like!

There are a lot of websites where you can find free templates to download and build, including my own one of course which you’re visiting right now. ;o)

Currently, I have two-hundred-and-thirty-seven (237!) free papercraft models in stock for you! :o) Select one of the Download categories above or in the Site map to the right to find the model you wish to download (if it’s not in one of the obvious categories, try the miscellaneous section).

If you want to contact me, or send me a picture of your finished paper model for the hall of fame, you can send me an e-mail at ninjatoes@home.nl and I’ll get back to you as soon as I can. Have fun building!

2,130 thoughts on “

  1. You should do a papercraft from Pixar’s Up. There aren’t really any good papercrafts out there from the movie and you could probably make a great one.

    1. I’m afraid that with all the ideas I already have, I can’t promise whether or not I will get around to making (a) paper model (s) from “Up”…

      There are a few official Disney simple boxhead style models like Carl and Russel and the house, and a bird and a more detailed version of the house at Paper Replika, but you probably already found those yourself…

  2. hey man, im an art student, always wanted to do one, finally am going to. any idea on what glue to use? i was considering a decoupage glue like modge podge (i think thats the brand). what would you recommend?

    1. If you live in America, Get Aleenes Tackey Glue (brown bottle). It will probably be at most craft stores. It’s the #1 most recomended glue for papercrafts (look around) and it works great. You MUST use around 200gsm paper, or your models will be really weak, and the glue works better with thicker paper. If you live any where else I cant really help you.

    2. I would say any glue is better than school glue. Aleene’s Tacky Glue seems to be popular, though I’ve yet to try it.

      Cardstock isn’t a must, its just a matter of preference. I use coverstock for most models since it’s easier to manipulate, cheaper, and still maintains shape. I only use cardstock on the bigger, more hollow models.

    3. Well, I always use “Tesa hobbylijm” (or “Tesa All-Purpose glue” in English speaking countries) as you can see in most of the instructions for my models, and it works perfect for me!

      But as you can also see, other people like using different kinds of glues… ;o) Like most if not all of the materials and tools to use, it really is a personal choice. If you have good experience with other projects with modge podge and you think it might work well, then why not give it a go some time? ;o)

    1. The most important step is the same as with making a paper model using the computer: the first thing you need to do, is break down the complex shape of your model subject into seperate, simpler shapes.

      Then it’s up to your experience to be able to unfold those simpler shapes into 2D templates in your head, and draw them out by hand. Everybody can unfold shapes like cubes, cylinders and cones with a bit of math, and as you build more models of your own and made by others, you will start to understand how to unfold more complex shapes.

      But even so, it really is a lot of “trial and error”: just cutting out the parts you made, and really fold and glue them together to see if everything fits the way you imagined, and adjusting the parts if it doesn’t until it does! ;o)

      1. I was thinking the same thing. I am working on building the Lara Croft wetsuit model, but I wanted to try and create my own character too.

  3. I have recently seen the movie “Avatar”(you can see whats coming)and now it has become clear to me …i must force you to make…the best papercraft in existence (aside from your other models). the best papercraft right now, would one of the Na’vi people, if it it already on your list, bump it up some. avatar has got some awards coming for it, and so would that papercraft, i know you would make the best version of the Na’vi people, so that’s why I’m asking you. I( and many many many other people) would greatly appreciate if you did this. (by force i mean ask u really nicely :D )

    1. Despite being a big sci-fi fan, I must admit I haven’t seen James Cameron’s Avatar yet (besides the hundreds and hundreds trailers and commercials of course, so I know what you’re talking about ;o)

      But I surely will, and who knows I will get inspired to make one of the Na’vi. But I can’t promise you anything, since rather than getting shorter, my “to do”-list is getting longer all the time… ;o)

      I’m sure you already know of the papercraft Scorpion Gunship model, which shows that other people are also working on papercraft Avatar models, but I don’t know of any Na’vi models yet…

    1. Thanks, I really enjoy making them. I don’t know for 100% sure which one I’ll do next, but maybe another Tank or a Recon unit. And I can’t promise you *when* I’ll make a new AW one yet…!

  4. Hey, you should make a stop-motion with your papercrafts, I mean, for example, make 4 Links in many positions so it seems if he is walking, I know that needs a lot of time and money but that would be great.
    SORRY FOR MY ENGLISH

    1. I think if you use a very simple figure, so that you can easily adjust the arms and legs and such, you could make a pretty nice stop motion!

      But on my models, the parts all fit together for just that one pose the model is in, and you would have to re-make the shoulders and hips and knees and other joints for every pose, so yeah, that would take *a lot of time*… ;o)

      It would work best I think if you used a very simple box-shaped model for example, where you just glue the arms to the sides of the body; that way, you don’t have to build a new model for each pose, but you only have to adjust the arms/legs a bit.

  5. As you may have noticed, I’ve started to hand-design papercrafts. I have a problem though. For the simpler models I make, I’m pretty sure they’ll wprk out so I don’t really need to testbuild. For the more complex ones, however, I’ll need to test them BEFORE scanning. I can test it out, but then I no longer have it in 2d format. How do you get past that obstacle?

    1. But I *do* scan them first before test building them! ;o)

      After drawing out all the parts in 2D but *before* tracing them with a black pen or colouring them, I scan the pencil version. That’s the version I then print and test build (link)

      For a test build, the colours don’t matter of course: a blank, white test build will also tell you whether the parts will fit together as you imagined or not.

      Make sure to build a print of the scan, and not the original hand drawn pencil version: that’s the one you can easily fix by hand again by erasing the pencil lines if there are any problems on the test build.

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