January 4th 2025 I had a big stroke…
I lived, but have to go through a long recovery
to see what I can still do in the future…
Hopefully it will be a lot…! 👍 Always keep having fun papercrafting!
Which papercraft model would you like to build?
“What’s papercraft?” you ask?
Well, that’s when (in this case ;o) you download and print a page of 2D parts (preferably on some thicker paper) cut them out and fold them, and then glue them together to make your very own 3D paper model of your favourite game/anime/movie character/whatever you like!
There are a lot of websites where you can find free templates to download and build, including my own one of course which you’re visiting right now. ;o)
Currently, I have two-hundred-and-thirty-seven (237!) free papercraft models in stock for you! :o) Select one of the Download categories above or in the Site map to the right to find the model you wish to download (if it’s not in one of the obvious categories, try the miscellaneous section).
If you want to contact me, or send me a picture of your finished paper model for the hall of fame, you can send me an e-mail at ninjatoes@home.nl and I’ll get back to you as soon as I can. Have fun building!
Ninjatoes' papercraft webpage 
I like zal
Thanks, I’m glad you do! ;o)
hey great work, i was wondering though how do you make the 3d images to make the templates off of, because i really want to start making models and sharing them with the world.
For videogame related models, sometimes you can get the actual models from the games, but they’re never really suited to make into papercraft as they are.
As you build more and more paper models from other designers, and start making your own ones, you will find out lots of things to improve on just by experience. Sometimes they work out, and sometimes they don’t. It’s really a matter of trying and testing (which makes this such a time consuming hobby… ;o)
As for how to use the 3D software of your choice to (re)model the 3D model, that’s just something you have learn as you go along, there are loads of simple 3D programs to choose from (you really don’t have to use the most expensive, professional program just to make a 3D object for a papercraft model!) all with their own terminology, features etc.
But the best tip I can give you: build lots and lots of papercraft models, and have fun!
I loved your site. Most of the papercrafts are kinda tricky, but they are freaking awesome.
Thanks, I always try to make my models easy enough for anybody to build, but sometimes I just don’t succeed… ;o)
Hey. I want to tell you thanks. this is truly an awsome site of paper crafts. I’ve already made the majora mask link. I plan on making the king of the read lions and zelda.
and a question. Is there any part(s) you would suggest to look out for?
As in frustrating parts.
thanks again
As far as princess Zelda goes, she’s more or less of the same difficulty as my Majora’s Mask’s young Link. Probably a little easier even, because she doesn’t have a “tricky-to-attach”-cap. ;o)
The bottom part of her dress needs to sink a bit inside the top part, so make sure the hole on the bottom of the top part of her dress is big enough for that and/or use some extra glue as lubricant. ;o)
But like I said, it’s basically the same as on young Link’s tunic, so if you already made that, princess Zelda probably won’t be too difficult anymore. ;o)
The most difficult part on my King of Red Lions is the head, especially the eyebrows. There are some extra pointers for King in my Webshots album.
Another thing to plan for is the sail and the mast. Not because they’re very difficult to build, but because the sail is so big, that it gets quite heavy, and the mast will bend easily because of the weight if you don’t use very strong paper.
The best thing to do, is to use strong paper for the mast (and most people even strengthen it further by glueing chopsticks, strong cardboard, balsa wood (almost anything they can find it seems ;o) inside the mast, and use regular (lighter) paper for the sail.
Also be sure to spread out the glue evenly when you’re glueing the back and front of the sail together, else the “glue lines” will shine through when light hits the sail. ;o)
Sometimes it’s also difficult to make the hull, because the big parts bend all the way but the right one… I made some ribs for inside the hull, that you might want to strengthen further with thicker cardboard to make them more rigid. And after that, it’s a matter of taking your time to glue all the hull parts together properly (especially the final parts will be tricky of course, when you can’t reach inside anymore…! ;o)
Good luck and have fun building!
thank you I appreciate that. (you were very thorough) :D
I just hope you will find at least some of my ramblings useful. ;o)
How much shaping do I have to do on part 13 on Majora’s Mask Link?
If you look at the parts with fold lines, you will see a lot of fold lines on part 13, that you all need to fold.
In step 12 of the instructions, you can see the shape that part 13 needs to become.
It is only the front of the tunic; there is no backside (that will be part 14) so you don’t have to connect the two ends or anything. In fact the only things you need to glue when pre-shaping part 13, is the center glueing tab at the top, and the two glueing tabs above the bottom three.
It’s a bit hard to explain in words, but after you have (mountain)folded all the fold lines as indicated on the version with lines, I’m sure you will able to shape the part like you can see in steps 12-15 of the instructions, especially when you start glueing on parts 14-16 (it kinda shapes itself then).
Good luck and have fun building!
do you think in future make v2 version of wolf link or king of red lions?
I’m not really sure, to be honest: normally, I don’t make a second version of a model.
Basically my test builds are my beta versions and the final model is the one I’m happy with myself as it is (otherwise I would have changed it already ;o)
But who knows, if I get inspired and find an awesome new pose or other idea for a model that I already made earlier, I won’t let that stop me from making a new version. ;o)
Can you send me the link of Chokipeta’s WW Link?
That one came as a bonus with a japanese gaming magazine called “Dengeki Cube” a couple of years back. It was pre-printed, so there is no official digital version…
(although I’m sure you can find an unofficial scan of it online somewhere…)
http://paperkraft.blogspot.com/2007/04/weve-posted-four-sword-link-before-and.html
There’s a link under the pictures that goes to mediafire or some other place you can download it, either should work. Enjoy!
no, i ment the one of Josh Darrah, the one that laughs, or did he edit it out for a laugh?
Ah, you meant *that* one…! ;o)
That’s Chokipeta’s WW Link edited by Josh Darrah, to make him fit my King of Red Lions model (making him hold the helm). If you download the Great Sea base Josh made for King, he will tell you how you can get it. ;o)
all I wanted to do is open an wrl file into accutrans(which ive done) change its name to obj, and open it into metasequioa. What I did was open up meta, press insert or open, and click on the obj. nothing apears. do I have to press other things? I dont want to use blender until im way more experienced.
Maybe you have to zoom in heaps, most of the time the object comes up really tiny when ripped from a game
Like Truffles said, the emulator plugin extracts all the 3D data that is currently in the memory. And sometimes that’s an entire part of the level, while you’re looking for a character that’s 100 times smaller… ;o)
First, mae sure the filesize isn’t “0 kB”, because then, something has gone wrong with either extracting the model, or converting it. ;o)
If you open the *.obj file in Metasequoia, you can press “Ctrl+F” to make all the 3D objects that are there fit in the current window, so you can see if anything is there (other prgograms probably have a similar feature).
Good luck and have fun!
Ill just try to learn Blender. Thanks for trying though
No prob, I hope you won’t have the same problems in Blender as you’re having now and everything goes smoothly. ;o)
I ripped a rattata from the game and got it to accutrans, but I dont know how to get the textures and model to metasequioa. can you help? i tried changing the file to 3ds, but i might have done it wrong.
A lot of it depends on the way you extracted the model from the game: of course I don’t know if the extraction process retains the textures and UV map coordinates (which tells the 3D software how to place the textures on the model) but if it does:
Textures are simple image files, that get “wrapped” around the 3D model by the software. So first, make sure the extraction process also gives you these image files. They can be in any image format, often in *.tga format, so you have to convert them to a format Metasequoia and preferably Pepakura Designer can read (like *.jpg or *.bmp).
A lot of people say they have problems with the *.3ds format and texturing, so if you can, I would suggest exporting the model to Wavefront *.obj format, and if there is an option to retain the UV map coordinates, use it! ;o)
After opening the *.obj file in Metasequoia, you have to set and assign the textures in the Material box (Ctrl+M if it’s not already there). If it already gives you a list of materials, then you’re in luck, and all you have to do is manually browse to the correct path for the textures/image files and the textures should appear.
You might have to save to Metasequoia’s native *.mqo format first for the textures to show up, and often they need to be fixed a bit.
Of course this is all assuming textures are supported by the extraction process…!
There’s an English help file for Metasequoia at its official site ( http://www.metaseq.net/english/index.html ) and there are a lot of forums with more Metasequoia help than I can give you here, so I hope you can get it to work with this!
Good luck and have fun!
Let me try to explain it more in detail. I ripped a rattata from pokemon stadium with project 64 and lemmys plugin. Navi (the papercrafter) made a tutorial and said after you open the textures and the blank model to accutrans, you should change the wrl file to 3ds. I saved it as that and many others, like obj and mqo, but none of them worked, and it said it couldnt open them. but when i tried to insert the obj one, it didnt say anything about not opening them. then when i exited out, it said there had been changes made to the document, but i didnt see anything. the textures are bmp’s, by the way. I know nothing about papercraft designing, sorry.
Well, after getting it into Accutrans, you can delete the surrounding background and everything to make this next step easier. After deleting excess away, save as an obj, and import it into Blender. This step is purely optional, but makes it incredibly easier to edit textures. Use the right mouse button to move the model after zooming in, and click on Images:Consolidate Textures in the UV window. This will give you a singular texture, and a singular UV layer. Save the consolidated image, export the model and save it over the model you imported, and it is ready for Meta. Simply open the obj, delete all materials in the material window, make a new one, go to Object:Attach current material to non-material faces, select the material in the material window, and if you already flipped the texture, the model should be just right. If you haven’t flipped the texture, flip it vertically in any image editing program. You will have to do this with any model used in Meta, unless the uv or textures are ripped flipped already. Edit to your desire. If the first few steps do not work, like you said, make sure everything is configured right according to this- http://www.vimeo.com/1347057 tutorial. Of course you’ll have Accutrans in between Blender, but accutrans isn’t really a major aspect of the process.
That, or you can go to pokemonpapercraft.com.
PMF already has a Rattata on there.
Do you think you can make a new pose on Majora’s Mask link?
Any model can have any pose of course, but because of the way they’re constructed, once the pose is decided, it’s pretty much set (with some exceptions on different kind of models ;o)
Perhaps I will make a new young Link model, using the things I learned since then, but that won’t be very soon I think, sorry…! ;o)